As we descended down a steep wooden staircase winding down the side of the trail, we stopped to admire some graffiti carved into the soft rock. Some of it dated back to the 18th century, if the carving is to be believed.

Once we descended into Markarfljot Valley, we caught up with our tour guides, who had rounded the lowlands in their vehicles. And waiting for us on the sideboards of one of the Nissan vehicles was some freshly chilled Brennivín, which never tasted better.

Driving back from Thorsmork, Luli noted that Iceland is suffering the effects of global warming, and its glaciers are receding at an alarming rate. Iceland's glaciers are very dynamic, and often recede and grow independent of short-term climate changes, however. That can create some challenging terrain on which to hike and navigate vehicles.

Luli explained that Iceland itself has dramatically different geological regions. Much of the landscape we saw was unbroken plain, not dissimilar to the American Midwest, though much wetter. It's no wonder, then, that that's where much of the nation's dairy cattle and sheep are raised, and where grain is grown. It doesn't take long to find hot springs, glaciers, mountains, active volcanoes, and waterfalls, however.

Iceland is a land of natural beauty and wonder, with a capital sporting some of the liveliest nightlife in all of Europe. My advice is to book a trip if you get a chance.