Nightlife in Reykjavík runs the gamut from glamorous, trendy and incredibly Eurocentric (filled with beautiful people wearing expensive tailored clothes) to homey American-style sports bars and English/Irish pubs. I spent most of my time in the latter, and grew quite fond of the local lager, called Viking.

I was also initiated into the world of Brennivín--one of Iceland's signature alcoholic beverage. Translated as "burning wine," Brennivín is schnapps, made from potatoes and flavored with caraway seeds. Best served ice cold, Brennivín's nickname is "svarti dauthi" ("Black Death") because of its black label (supposedly put there to warn people away from consuming it). Many Icelanders (and wiser foreigners) do not drink it; alas, I can lay no such claim to wisdom.

Reykjavík sports numerous coffee shops and plentiful ATMs, lots of places to snack and people-watch, museums, theaters and other distractions. And the language barrier was non-existent. Everyone with whom I spoke, even out in the country, spoke English fluently.

More than once during my stay, my friends and I found our way to Nonnabiti, a sandwich shop on nearby Hafnarstræti. Known to its acolytes as "Nonni's," it's something of a local legend ("best drunk food in Iceland!" proclaimed one cab driver proudly), and if you ever go, I'd strongly recommend trying either the beef and cheese or the lambabatur (the lamb sub). Both are excellent and relatively inexpensive. Service was friendly and efficient.

By the way, tipping is a relatively recent and still infrequent phenomenon in the country. In most of the restaurants I visited, there was no place on the check to write a gratuity and no mention of it on the menu, and most waitstaff don't expect it. It is becoming more common especially in spots frequented by tourists--I saw a number of tip jars in some of the bars I frequented while I was there.