In particular, I didn't like the switch from simple, straightforward text labels for various buttons to attractive but largely incomprehensible icons.

what Gmail looks like now.

And what it looked like before.

Do you miss "before" as much as I do? Then you'll be glad to hear that Google now gives you the option of going back in time, interface-wise.

Just open up Gmail in your browser, click the little gear icon in the upper-right corner, and then click Settings.